Sailing the Ionian

Tuesday 24 May we entered the Ionian Sea where we made stops at three different islands, Ithaca, Lefkadas and Corfu, during the next week. Our first impression was how different these islands were from the Cyclades in the Aegean. Gone are the craggy, dry, windswept islands with the picturesque blue and white architecture you see in all the travel brochures and guide books. Instead the Ionian Islands are very green and fertile and the architecture appears to be a mix of both Venetian and French with a good bit of English culture thrown in – especially on Corfu. The islands closely hug the western mainland of Greece and the winds are not as strong as in the Aegean. The islands are close together with plenty of anchorages and harbors to choose from. It reminded us of sailing in the BVI.

Our first stop was in Vathi, Ithaca. We med moored in the harbor which when we came in had only a few boats but by evening there must have been close to 30 sailboats in the harbor with plenty of space for more. A special treat occurred the next morning. As a large ketch was pulling up anchor and leaving one of the folks on board was at the bow serenading the harbor on bagpipes. After Ithaca we sailed on to Lefkadas. Our destination was Vilkho Bay. Before approaching the turn into the bay we sailed past two unassuming islands, Skorpios and Skorpidhi. These unassuming islands are the very famous private islands of Aristotle Onassis. Boats can anchor off the islands, in fact one of the favored anchorages is off a small cove Jackie O preferred. However you can not venture ashore. As we came into Vilkho Bay we understood while several cruisers recommended it to us. Vilkho Bay has earned the nickname “Velcro Bay” – cruisers arrive and decide to just “stick” around. One look and you can see why - beautiful green waters with hills all around and a few tavernas on shore to in which to while away the hours. We found ourselves doing just that at the Yacht Club where we had the chance to chat up the Irish owner over a frosty cold one.

Before you get into Vilkho Bay you pass by the town of Nidri a very popular tourist spot with lots of action. But by the time you move into Vilkho the noise dies away and it is truly and tranquil spot. We only “stuck” around for one night and then motored up the Lefkadas channel to Lefkadas Town and med moored on the town quay for two nights. The channel separates the island from the mainland and on either sides of the channel are salt marshes. Lefkadas Town has an active water front and just behind it another one of those wonderful pedestrian streets with cafes and shops.

After our 2 night stay we sailed, ok mostly motored, 60nm to Corfu and took a slip at Gouvia Marina just north of the town of Corfu. With 1,200 slips, several cafes, swimming pool, and even croquet lawns and cricket pitches, not only was it one of the largest marinas we’ve ever been in, it also felt more like England than Greece! With the marina office soon closing we quickly hiked to the office to check in. While in the office who should come in – Maurice from Esperanza. Our paths had crossed once again. He invited us over for a drink that evening and we enjoyed catching up with Terry and Dr. Bob. They had also just arrived today. It was great to see them again and we think we’re destined to see them again at some point in Croatia. We filled up our time with exploring the old town of Corfu.
The old town is flanked by two Venetian Forts and in between are streets filled with shops, cafes, and museums. You had the feeling you were in Florence or Paris instead of Greece. We also rented a car for a day to explore the island. Corfu is lush and green with beautiful flowers in amazing colors everywhere. Olive and cypress trees dot the mountain sides and each harbor town has its own personality. One thing that is common among the towns – tourism. Corfu is a tourist island and all the towns have souvenir shop after souvenir shop. It’s apparent the island caters to the British as most of the signage is in English with many of the restaurants advertising “Full English Breakfast”. One advantage of this is we were able to find a British Hair Dresser to cut our hair. For once communicating how we wanted it cut was a breeze. Even with all the tourism Corfu is a beautiful place and one we will remember fondly.