Sunday, September 14, 2008

Trains, Planes, Automobiles and Hurricanes

As indicated by the title this update contains some unusual news that doesn’t have a lot to do with cruising. The story starts on September 7th when we left La Rochelle for Hondarribia, Spain. We had a wonderful overnight sail and it was exciting to see the mountains of northern Spain appear in the horizon as we approached the coast.
Lone Star averaged 8 knots per hour for the trip and was very comfortable. We raised our Q flag and entered the marina in Hondarribia and found the visitors pontoon where we were to dock.
That was when our short term plans changed rather dramatically. While securing the first line Jan's left index finger got caught between the line and the boat cleat. Then, as the line started to tighten, the finger was severely pinched resulting in the tip being torn off and the bone exposed. Needless to say the rest of the docking was a lot of fun. Blood was coming out of Jan’s finger at a rapid rate. She was a trooper though and applied pressure with a towel and was even able to take over the helm while Craig secured the other mooring lines.
With the boat secured, triage applied to the wound and the trail of blood cleaned up we seized the new opportunity to sample the Spanish health care system. Our first visit was to the emergency room at the hospital in Hondarribia where we were seen by a doctor who spoke excellent English, explained the treatment options available and encouraged us to see a plastic surgeon in the nearby town of San Sebastian because they were better equipped to perform a skin graft if that treatment option was selected. He even took the time to make the appointment, call the taxi and made sure the cab driver to San Sebastian understood exactly where we needed to go.
At the hospital in San Sebastian the plastic surgeon explained the treatment options, but the explanations had to be translated with the help of a nurse that spoke English. As a result we were not entirely sure about all the details. We did understand enough to know the procedure could be deferred for a week if we elected to go back to Houston to get it done. We left the 2nd hospital with a fully bandaged wound, supplies for changing the dressing, an appointment for September 12th if we decided to get a skin graft there and a queasy feeling after seeing Jan’s exposed bone where the tip on the end of her finger used to be. Once again the doctor and nurse were outstanding. The nurse communicated with the taxi driver and made sure he knew to stop at a pharmacy so we could pick up drugs and where exactly to take us. Later that night we decided the boat was no place for Jan to recover and set in motion plans to come home.
We spent the next two days preparing to leave the boat in Hondarribia, which Craig had to do 100% of, finalizing travel arrangements which Jan handled, and keeping track of Hurricane Ike. We also contacted our friend Kathy Stewart who worked on doctor angle stateside and set up an appointment for Monday, September 15 with a hand specialist. During this time we did manage to get out once and sample the local cuisine for lunch.
This convinced us that we would indeed come back when we restarted our cruising. Then on Thursday, Sept 11th we said goodbye to Lone Star and began our trip home.


To get home from Hondarribia, Spain we (1) took a cab to the Hendaye, France train station – right across the border (2) took the TGV train to Amoulline, France – 3 hours (3) changed to the TGV train going to Charles DeGaulle airport – 3 hours (4) spent the night at the airport hotel with reservations the following day for the nonstop Continental flight to Houston – 10 hours. We chose to fly out of Paris as opposed to Madrid because we could get a nonstop flight to Houston which would be easier for Craig who had to Sherpa all the bags and Jan who was getting thru the ordeal with Ibuprofen and copious quantities of wine. All the while we were keeping track of Ike and not liking what we were seeing. We knew it was a race against time. We woke up the next morning and learned we had lost the race. Bush was closing at 2PM, and our flight which was due in at 4PM was cancelled. We also checked the internet and realized Houston’s run of 25 years without a hurricane was at an end. Sooo (5) Jan scrambled to get us re accommodated on another airline and (6) we caught a Delta flight to Atlanta – 9 ½ hours (7) cleared Customs and took a plane to DFW – 2 hours (8) rented a car in Dallas and drove to Henrietta, Texas – 2 hours where Craig’s parents live. After 2 days of trains, planes and automobiles we arrived at 1AM Saturday, Sept 13 (our 33rd Anniversary).
We are surprised this travel log did not turn into a twelve step program because we were certainly ready for a drink when we got to Henrietta. Unfortunately this city is located in one of the “dry” counties (no alcohol sold) in Texas. The folks, bless their hearts, had some cold Corona Lights in the fridge so we were saved.
As we wait for utility and other public services to return in Houston it is nice to be able to spend time with Craig’s parents, sister and brother in law. We will continue to be anxious until we get to the appointment with the hand specialist in Houston and are now exploring options in the Dallas area. On the upside, while we have friends with damage to their homes and it will take months if not years for the Galveston/Houston area to recover, all our friends and Jan’s mom are safe.

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Tides, Markets & Weather Windows

As we write this we’re still in La Rochelle doing what cruisers spend a lot of time doing – waiting for a weather window. As soon as we have good weather our plans are to head south to Spain. Since our last entry we have done numerous sails in the La Rochelle area to the nearby islands of Ile d’Re, Ile d’Aix and Ile d’Orleron. Each trip out we have tested various aspects of the boat and are extremely pleased with her. On shore time has been spent exploring the area on bike and foot and enjoying the market. La Rochelle has the largest market in the area. The indoor market is open 7 days a week and has everything from seafood to cheval meat (you figure that one out); cheeses to pates; and breads to deserts.



Three days a week the local farmers join the permanent market and sell their produce and cheeses in outdoor tents surrounding the market. It’s quite a colorful site and excellent people watching.



Another event that becomes part of your life is the tides. Back in Texas and during our past cruising tides were rarely an issue. Here your sailing time revolves around them. It is not uncommon to have a 5 meter difference between low and high tide.




Be sure to pay close attention to the last picture. Some of the French sailers apparently do not pay attention to the tide tables because they are AGROUND!

But now all boat items are fixed and Lone Star is ready to go. It took a bit longer to get everything taken care of not because of slow workers but because of another French tradition – vacation time in August. August is the month France goes on vacation and Amel essentially shuts down for 3 weeks during this time. So we are now waiting for that perfect or almost perfect window to head south. Since we have been here the weather has been constantly changing from sunny to stormy to windy to extremely windy and stormy. In fact yesterday we had gusts in excess of 40 knots. Its one thing to be out and have the winds build to 40, it’s another to start out in them – especially when you don’t have too. However the weather gurus are telling us a high is on the way and things should be moderating. Well if you have to wait somewhere for good weather you could do a lot worse than La Rochelle.
Fair Winds,
Craig and Jan