Gibraltar to Gran Canaria

The delivery crew consisting of Craig, Mike and Ed arrived in Gibraltar on October 26th and proceeded to bring Lone Star back to life after she sat unattended at Alcaidesa Marina in La Linea, Spain for 60 days. La Linea is right next to the Gibraltar airport on the Spanish side. After getting Lone Star hooked back to shore power and bringing the systems up we walked into La Linea and had a late lunch.

On the 27th we motored from Spain to Gibraltar and checked into Marina Bay Gibraltar so we would be closer to stores for provisioning. We focused on provisioning that day so we would have time for a tour of the rock before we left. On Friday Mike and Craig toured the rock. Ran into one of Mike's cousins on the mountain before going into Saint Michael's cave.  Took a couple of pictures of the part that had a theater in it.  It is still used today.

We used a favorable weather window to begin the passage from Gibraltar to Las Palmas on 29 October. After spending the morning doing some last minute provisioning we slipped our lines to begin the voyage to Las Palmas, Canaries. We had winds off our stern the entire way along with an Atlantic swell that made Lone Star roll about 20 degrees on each crest. That made it uncomfortable to sleep until we got the hang of wedging ourselves in the bunks.

We used the motor to stay ahead of a weather system in the mid Atlantic. After four nights at sea Lone Star was motoring into Gan Canaria on 1 November and Ed was preparing to raise our Texas flag along with the ARC flag. I am glad we were able to leave when we did because several boats that left a day or two later encountered larger waves and had very uncomfortable passages.

Back to the Rock

After leaving Mahon we spent several days exploring the calas on the the southern coast of Menorca. At first the calas appeared to be delightful anchorages but because of the wind direction we ended up spending several rolly and uncomfortable nights on the hook. We finally decided to abandon Menorca and made a quick trip of thirty two miles to the northern shore of Mallorca where the anchorages were much more comfortable. On August 20 we sailed into familiar surroundings – the harbor of Palma to await the arrival of our last guests of the season. In 2009 we spent the month of June in Mallorca using Palma as our base. This time we set up “shop” at Port Mallorca Marina, a great marina in the heart of the harbor.

On August 24 Alicen Swift and Tiffany Tarrant joined us for several days cruising. Alicen is the assistant director of our favorite charity, Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation, and Tiffany, an Ob/Gyn Doc is her good friend and partner in crime. We spent 3 nights on the hook in three interesting anchorages. Our first stop was Port Soller where we took the tram to the interior town of Soller on of the many places reported to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. The second evening we anchored in Santa Ponsa Bay which has one of the best and largest beaches on Mallorca. The girls enjoyed some much needed beach time while Captain Craig enjoyed some solitude on board Lone Star. Our final night we dropped the hook at Portal Vells Cala where we explored an ancient sea cave and enjoyed the best snorkeling of our entire three years in the Med. Back in Palma we spent our final day with Alicen and Tiffany exploring the old city and enjoying a wonderful dinner out. A & T jumped ship on August 28 and on the 29th we left Palma for the last time and pointed Lone Star toward Gibraltar.

We spent the next week retracing our 2009 route as we headed west toward the Rock. As in 2009, we anchored off the island of Ispalmador which is off the coast of Ibiza and also like 2009 we waited out a storm in the Puerto Genoves anchorage. Our final night before arriving GIB was spent in the Benalmadena Marina which we renamed “Wally World” back in ’09. On September 6 at 1640 hours we arrived in Gibraltar, the western gateway to the Med. Our home was the Alcadesa Marina, Spain, just across the Gibraltar border. From our slip we had an excellent view of the Rock from our cockpit. We spent the next few days “buttoning up” the boat and hanging out in GIB enjoying pub grub. On September 13 we said goodbye to Lone Star and started the trek home after traveling 3,243 nautical miles this summer.

“Rocking Around the Rock”

After two nights in Lagos we set sail on May 26 for an overnight sail to Gibraltar, an 180 nm trip. The weather was excellent but the winds were very light so we augmented with the iron jenny. Most of the trip was uneventful until 0600 on the 27^th when we had our introduction to the Levante winds. Levante (means to rise up) winds blow predominately from the east and increase rapidly. In less than an hour we went from 6 knots of wind to over 30 with gusts as high as 45 knots, and of course, since we were headed east , on the nose. Motoring directly into the wind was somewhat less than a comfortable ride but Lone Star handled it admirably. We slammed through the Gibraltar Straits uneventfully and anxious to get our first glimpse of the famous Rock. However, along with strong winds, the Levante also brings with it poor visibility so maddeningly the Rock was elusively hidden behind low clouds. At 1210 we slipped into our berth in Queensway Quay Marina, grateful for the protection from the howling Levante winds.

First order of business was to check in at the marina office and clear customs, and then it was baths for the three of us and a good rinsing for Lone Star. With that taken care of Jan and Jennifer headed off to town in search of Fish and Chips and shopping while Craig grabbed a much needed nap. The Colony of Gibraltar is composed mainly of the Rock. Gibraltar town, situated at the base on mainly reclaimed land, is long and skinny and with one Main Street lined with shops and pubs. You would swear you were in merry ole England instead of tucked on a peninsula sandwiched on either side by Spain. Pub Grub is available everywhere and pounds, not Euros is the currency. The Rock was still hidden behind clouds and out in the open the Levante winds could be felt. Fingers were crossed for clear skies the next day.

Our wishes were answered as the next day dawned bright and clear with great visibility and diminished winds. We spent the day all over the Rock – on top, on bottom, all around and even in it. The Rock is the colony’s best sight. Its attractions include fantastic views from the very top, quirky, apes, a hokey cave and impressive Siege Tunnels.

The three of us took a cable car to the summit deciding it would be much better to hike down rather than up. At the top we were immediately greeted by the official residents of the Rock – the Barbary Apes. Actually a breed of monkeys, there are about 200 inhabitants who have no fear of humans; we saw several going after tourists’ backpacks. The views were amazing and from the top you could see that the Rock does indeed look like the one in the Prudential ads. We spent the day hiking down stopping first at St Michael’s Cave, full of stalagmites, stalactites and classical music. Our next stop was the Siege Tunnels.

Originally built by the British during the Spanish and French siege in the 1700’s they were enlarged by more than 30 miles during WWII and were home to over 17,000 soldiers. As we neared the bottom we made one more stop at the Moorish Castle, actually the remains of a tower built in the 700’s. After several hours of hiking and touring our way down we finally made it back to the town and immediately headed for a Pub for a coldie and some Pub Grub. After a long day both never tasted so good! With full stomachs and sore muscles we turned in early. Tomorrow was an important day - we would officially sail into the Mediterranean!

At 10AM on Friday, May 29, refreshed from a good night’s sleep, we motored out of Queensway Quay Marina. We first stopped at the fuel dock to take advantage of the cheap Gibraltar fuel prices and then were on our way. At 1040 we rounded the Rock and were now officially in the Med. The Levante winds were now gone and in light winds of 8 knots with Jennifer manning the helm for part of the trip we sailed to Benalmadena Marina close to Malaga, Spain. At 1820 we were in our slip and popped the champagne in celebration of making it to the Med.

The celebration was also bittersweet because we knew our time with Jennifer was coming to a close. It had been a great visit. We thoroughly enjoyed each other’s company, even the “spirited” political discussions! Jennifer is fluent in Spanish and we took great pleasure in having Jennifer with us in Portugal as she spoke Spanish, the Portuguese spoke Portuguese and somehow they understood each other. In Spain she became our interpreter and we knew we would not just miss her but also her language skills once she was gone. Our last full day together we took the bus to Malaga, toured the old town, enjoyed tapas for lunch and visited the Museo Picasso which houses paintings and sculptures spanning Picasso’s entire life. Back at the marina in the afternoon, Jennifer and Jan headed for the beach for some sunbathing and a first dip in the Mediterranean Sea. Then at 5:30AM on May 31^st with heavy hearts we said our good byes as Jennifer headed off in a taxi to the Malaga airport for her flight back to NYC. In two days she would be leaving the USA again, this time for Mexico City and a summer internship. We headed back to Lone Star knowing it was going to be a bit lonely and definitely quieter on board.