Friday, June 18, 2010

Heading North

Finally, on June 8th, after two weeks in the marina we were on our way. Our plans were to head north as quickly as possible to Kusadasi. Kusadasi is the port nearest the ancient ruins of Ephesus. It would take about 4 or 5 days to sail to Kusdasi. The meltemi winds blow from the northwest, strengthen during the afternoon and get stronger as the summer progresses. Since our travels would initially take us against the wind the plans were to get early starts in the morning and make as much progress as possible each day. We headed out the afternoon of the 8th and had a delightful sail in Marmaris Bay running close into shore and past the harbor. It was great to raise the sails for the first time since last October and run thru all the systems while under way.

By 1700 we had dropped the hook, successfully- hooray!, and were anchored in a delightful anchorage right next to Marmaris Yacht Marin! So ok, we didn’t exactly get far – that wasn’t the point of the sail. We just wanted to work out the kinks and see if we remembered how to do this thing called sailing. The next morning we were off bright and early at 0630 for a 40nm motor sail to Kargi Koyu Bay on the Datca Peninsula. The day was uneventful and it was a peaceful anchorage with a few sunbathers enjoying the water and just two other boats to keep us company. Once again we off the next morning at 0630. We motor sailed for 64nm and at 1530 pulled into the new Didim Marina for two nights. The marina has all the modern conveniences and since it’s only a year old plenty of availability. While in Didim we visited the ancient ruins of Didyma. Didyma was a religious sanctuary to Apollo. The temple, the largest Ionic temple in the world, was destroyed in 494BC and was in ruins until Alexander the Great arrived. Reconstruction was never completed and what can be seen today dates from 300BC. Anxious to get to Kusadasi we continued on our way and pulled into the Kusadasi Marina on June 12. Once a small fishing village, Kusadasi is now a bustling tourist town with restaurants and shops lining the harbor and an excellent bazaar just a block off. Since it is the gateway to Ephesus cruise ships and bus tours are constantly coming and going and in the evenings the nightlife heats up. Within the confines of the marina are several restaurants, swimming pool and tennis courts. Our first morning we hired a taxi and were off to see Ephesus. Ephesus is the largest, best preserved Roman ruins in the eastern Mediterranean. At one point the population was over 500,000. St Paul preached here and established an early congregation and St John brought Mary here where, legend has it, she lived out her final days. Even with all the other tourists it was truly amazing to walk the ancient streets lined with columns, temples, theatres and homes and to tour Mary’s house. Another excursion we took while in Kusadasi was the ferry to Samos, Greece. Samos is the closest Greek island to Turkey; at one point they are only one mile apart. The harbor town is charming with all the requisite tavernas lining the quay. For those with inquiring minds and who are in the know – we were stamped in and out of Greece with no problems. For those of you not in the know, you’ll just have to wonder why that might have been a problem!

Beware of KIWIS Asking “Would you like to go for a Daddle?”

According to the Free Online Dictionary the definition of “daddle” is: To toddle; to walk unsteadily, like a child or an old man; hence, to do anything slowly or feebly. So when fellow cruisers Lindy and David Scrivin asked if we would like to go for a daddle Sunday morning and see some ancient ruins near Marmaris Yacht Marin we enthusiastically accepted. Lindy and David are a great Kiwi couple who left Auckland, New Zealand several years ago aboard their 42 foot sailing yacht Raconteur. Their journey has taken them deep into the South Pacific, thru the Red Sea and eventually to Marmaris, Turkey where they have wintered their boat for the past few seasons. We first met David when he “rescued” us outside Tansas, the major supermarket in Marmaris. Being newbie’s to town, we thought we were waiting for the Dolmus at the correct location but David recognized the error of our ways and took us to the correct bus stop. A delightful chat ensued on the ride back to the marina and a new cruising friendship was formed. We learned that his boat Raconteur had just gone back into the water and his wife Lindy who was in Wales visiting family would soon be joining him for cruising.

A few evenings later we ran into David and Lindy in the marina bar and the Sunday morning daddle was proposed. David explained the last hour would include a bit of steep but we had no worries; after all we trusted David completely – he had steered us correctly in Marmaris. Sunday morning with water and sandwiches in our pack and the sun shining overhead our band of hikers took off. Joining the four of us was Launa from Cat Callou who, with her husband, had recently completed a circumnavigation. As we were starting out Lindy informed us that in addition to the hike we would also be “geocaching”. Unknown to us, GeoCaching is a worldwide phenomenon, a treasure hunt that has been going on for the past 10 years. Treasures, or caches, are hidden all over the world in various containers. Inside the containers are a log book for recording your find and various small items such as magnets, band aids, small toys, etc. These items you trade for something you leave in the container. There is a website www.geocaching.com which lists all the known geocaches in the world and their GPS coordinates. You can input your location and find out if there are any geocaches near you. We have since found that there five hidden in different parts of Kingwood. As it turns out there was a geocache hidden in the ruins of the Ancient City which was one of the sites we were hiking to. Lindy had brought along her granddaughter’s “Travel Bug”, a small stuffed dragon who would visit the geocache if we found it but not stay. We soon found out that in addition to being expert trekkers Lindy and David are also avid geocachers. So armed with water, a travel bug and David’s new hand held GPS off we went on our little daddle.

So remember the definition of daddle at the beginning? Well we guess in the Kiwi Dictionary daddle must have a very different meaning. Almost immediately we were hiking uphill and not at a slow rate. At first, other than being uphill, the going was not rough – we were on a dirt road. However, soon we left the road and were hiking on trails and climbing over rocks. After about an hour we came upon the ancient village and after some searching voila!

The geocache was found. Pictures were taken, names were recorded in the log book and then the geocache was returned to its hiding place. After a brief rest we were on our way again with David informing us that the next bit would be the hardest. We looked at each other thinking, “Hey we’re from Houston – we’re flatlanders. What we just did wasn’t steep?” Apparently not. Soon we were climbing –not hiking virtually straight up the mountain over giant boulders and across fallen trees. Trail – what trail? The only way we knew which way to go was by following red painted markings. Markings we found out David had painted the year before. Turns out our trusted leader is not only an avid trekker, he also sets trails and leads hikes for others.

Though it was obvious we were out of our element, David and Lindy were encouraging us the whole way even announcing at one point we had broken the back of the trail. Well, I don’t know about breaking the trail’s back but at that point I was just praying some body part didn’t break! Finally, after what seemed like days but in reality were only 2 ½ hours we made it to the top of the mountain and the castle/fort ruins. Was it worth it? You bet. The ruins were intriguing and views stunning. We spent about 45 minutes on top enjoying our break and pondering the history of the ruins then we were off on our descent. We took a different route which was much easier; after all it was down and soon turned into a dirt road.

About ¾ of the way down we encountered an ancient cave that was used as far back as 4th century BC for religious ceremonies. Finally, thinking we would never see her again, we were back on Lone Star – totally exhausted and barely able to move. We also decided that if we ever recovered us two flatlanders were definitely going to work on this incline stuff. That evening we all regrouped in the bar for frosty coldies and to toast the day’s successful Daddle. However the next time a Kiwi invites us for a daddle……

Monday, June 7, 2010

Back to the Boat

Greetings from Lone Star! We are finally back on the boat. Our start this year was delayed due to our oldest daughter Jennifer graduating with not one but two masters from Columbia. How kewl is that? After enjoying all the graduation festivities in NYC and saying goodbye to family and friends we left Houston on May 22nd for Turkey. We arrived in Istanbul via a connection in Frankfurt on the 23rd. After an overnight stay in Istanbul we took a 1 hour flight to Dalaman followed by a 1 hour taxi ride to Marmaris Yacht Marina the afternoon of the 24th. Even with our bleary eyes and jet lagged brains, Lone Star looked great in the yard with new bottom paint and a clean shiny hull.

We spent the first night in the marina hotel and then moved aboard the next morning to start the 2 ½ day process of getting Lone Star ready for the water. We had to remove the propeller, drain the oil from the lower drive unit and replace the packing bearings. This was a first for Craig and he appreciated Bill Rouse's (s/v BeBe currently on a circumnavigation) comments about how to use the puller devise. Sure enough the propeller popped right off.

On May 27th Lone Star was back where she belonged – in the water.
We certainly won’t miss the endless trips up and down the ladder while she was in the yard but we do have to admit the “boat yard stair stepper” was great exercise. Since she’s been back in the water we’ve been busy with putting her back together for the cruising season. From putting sails back on, checking that all the systems were working to answering important questions – What’s this for? Where did I put that gismo? How does this work and what does it do? - our days have been full. But just in case you think it’s been all work and no play, let not your hearts be troubled. We have built into the schedule time for hanging out by the pool, enjoying sundowners with fellow cruisers in the marina bar or on board boats, enjoying the great Turkish cuisine and exploring Marmaris.

The actual town of Marmaris is across the bay from the marina. There are two ways to get to town – dolmus (bus) or water taxi. Both are a 20 minute trip and offer beautiful views of the bay and surrounding countryside. Marmaris has a lovely walk that rings the bay. Alongside the harbor are tour boats and Turkish gullets offering every type of excursion imaginable . Restaurants can be found all along the harbor walk serving amazing dishes. The Turks have definitely elevated the art of grilling to a new height. Just off the harbor is a bazaar full of shops selling anything you can imagine and an ancient castle worth exploring. So far we have found the Turkish people to be very friendly and helpful. English is widely spoken; it’s a required course in school, which is a good thing because the language is very, very different from ours.

Our stay in Marmaris has been extended due to problems with our “sports car” motor (dingy motor). Cruising would be next to impossible without the car; so off the motor went to a local shop and within two days we had her back and running like a champ. Now the time is finally here – tomorrow we slip the lines and set sail on a yet to be determined route exploring the Turkish coast and the nearby Greek Islands. Stay tuned for our next update from some unknown Turkish location. Fair Winds!