Cruising the Ionian and Carian Coasts

After a four day visit to Kusadasi we pulled out of the marina on June 16 and pointed Lone Star south. This time however, we were in no rush and were looking forward to some leisurely cruising. The coastline of Turkey is deeply indented with numerous gulfs. In each gulf are a number of bays all offering wonderful anchorages. Unique to Turkey are the small fish restaurants and tavernas found in many of the anchorages. These restaurants have their own private docks, often with electricity and water hookups, that boats can tie up to for free. All that’s expected is that you eat dinner or lunch at their restaurant. We took advantage of that custom and thoroughly enjoyed some great dinners. Grilled lamb, beef, chicken and fish were always on the menu along with mezes, the Turkish version of tapas or appetizers. Roasted peppers, eggplant dips, pickled seaweed, humus, grilled octopus and zucchini cakes were just a few of the mezes we sampled. Cooking on the boat definitely became something hard to do! When we didn’t tie up at one of the restaurant piers we anchored out in crystal clear waters that rival and surpass the Caribbean. In Turkey, in addition to anchoring, it is common to run a stern line to shore to keep the boat from swinging.

Gulluk Korfezi

The Gulluk Korfezi or Gulf of Mandalya is the first gulf south of Kusadasi. Two stops there were the highlights of this gulf – Kazikli Limani and Asin Limani. Kazikli Limani (harbor) is located at the very back of the gulf. It is hilly and heavily forested and lightly populated. The cruising guide does not do this bay justice. The guide book states there several mussel and fish farms at the entrance. However all of these have been removed and the bay has returned to a more natural state. We decided to tie up at Captain Han’s Restaurant and were glad we did. This was our first experience dining at a bay restaurant and even after stopping at many more it remains our favorite and the photo they took of us and the boat shows how beautiful it is at night. The owner Emre is an excellent host. We were the only boat that evening and enjoyed an excellent fish dinner and the good company of Emre and his friends. The other highlight was Asin Limani the site of the ancient ruins of Iassos. We med moored along the sleepy little fishing village’s quay. It was amazing to look across the harbor from Lone Star’s cockpit at the ruins which date from 400BC. Once the heat of the afternoon was gone we explored the Temple of Zeus, the agora (market), theatre and hiked through ancient olive groves to the Byzantine Fort on top of the mountain. Truly enchanting!

Gokova Korfezi

We entered the Gokova Gulf on June 21. Our first stop was the town of Bodrum, located at the mouth of the gulf. Bodrum is an enjoyable tourist town with dozens of gullets in the harbor and a very crowded marina. However after telling us there was no room, they found us a slip for two nights. Located right in the heart of the town the location was perfect for exploring the city. Not to be missed is the Castle of St Peter housing the Underwater Archaeology Museum. The castle itself is worth the price of admission. The museum exhibits are excellent and one of the highlights was the remains of a 15th century vessel and her cargo of glass wares –excavated by a team from Texas A&M –gig’em! Anxious to depart city life and enjoy the more rural features of the Gulf, we set sail after two days.

Following a 20nm sail we tied up to Rose Mary’s Pirate Landing in Cokertme. A number of charter companies have bases in Bodrum and Cokertme is a popular first or last night stop when cruising Gokova. There are four restaurants, all with their own piers, and were all full by sundown. The bay is beautiful and we decided to stay another night, this time anchored out. There are so many potential anchorages in Gokova you could spend weeks cruising this gulf. After Cokertme we anchored in Akbuk Limani, a picturesque spot with high mountains dropping steeply into the sea and crystal waters. After leaving Akbuk we sailed 5nm across the gulf to Sehir Adalari (Castle Island). We dropped the hook in turquoise waters and proceeded to explore the ruins on the island. The ruins date from the Carian to Byzantine times. There is a small beach known as Cleopatra’s beach. Cleopatra is rumored to have spent time on this island and had sand imported from North Africa to create the beach so her “good friend” Marc Anthony could sunbathe. Whether this is fact or fiction tests on the sand reveal that it is not native to Turkey and has similar traits to sand found in North Africa. Hmmmm.

After Castle Island we sailed down the south side of the gulf to English Harbor named for the British Boat Squadron which was stationed there during WWII. This is an absolutely gorgeous, well protected bay. The hills are heavily forested with pine trees and the water is mirror calm. It reminded us more of Lake Ouchita, Arkansas were we spent several family vacations, than the Med. We spent the first night tied up to the pier at Deniz Kizi Kaptan Restaurant and the next anchored out where we experienced our first attempt at running a stern line ashore. While our initial efforts may not have been graceful we did ultimately experience success.

Hisaronu Korfezi

On July 1 we left the Gokova Gulf and pulled into Turgutries Marina to await the arrival of two guests. Jaime, our youngest, had a good friend and fellow dancer who was traveling in Turkey with her sister who had just finished studying a semester abroad in Ankara, Turkey. Emails were exchanged, a plan worked out and Jessy and Daniela Kronberg joined us on board for two days of sailing. The morning after they arrived we took off on a 24nm sail to Knidos on the Datca Peninsula.
The winds were excellent and the sailing was great. Jessy was behind the helm for the majority of the trip and after a brisk sail we were tied up to the Knidos Restaurant Pier at 1230. Once again Knidos was an incredible site where from the boat you could look out and swim in the waters beneath ancient ruins dating as far back as the 7th century BC. Though overgrown, the ruins are impressive because of their size and setting. That evening the four of us enjoyed dinner in the restaurant and watched World Cup football on the restaurant TV. Spain was playing and it turns out Daniella was a huge fan, especially of one player – Pique. Sunday, July 4th we sailed from Knidos to the town of Datca, a distance of 20nm. Actually the wind died and we ended up motoring. Unfortunately Daniella missed her turn at the helm. Once we had dropped the anchor in the bay in front of the harbor the four along with Jessy’s and Daniela’s backpacks were in the dingy headed for shore. It was time to say our goodbyes and they were off on land for more adventures. It was great having them on board and spending part of July 4th with fellow Americans.

After a pleasant night on the hook and a walk in town the next morning we headed deeper into the Hisaronu Gulf. Our destination was Keci Buku a beautiful bay located at the very end of the gulf. Keci Buku is a beautiful cove with thick pine forests on all sides. There are several restaurants in the cove and we chose Iskele’s. Of course another great meal was had and the next morning we took a taxi inland to hike the Turgut Waterfalls. We arrived early, before the throngs of tourists, and Jan braved the cold mountain waters while Craig hiked to the top of the falls.
Later we had a 10nm motor sail past several islands and anchored with a line ashore in Dirsek Bay. We keep writing about the beautiful waters in Turkey but so far Dirsek takes the blue ribbon. The colors and clarity were amazing and we actually saw fish when we went snorkeling! Unlike the Caribbean there are not many fish to see in the Med and I think most of them hang out in Dirsek Bay. The next afternoon we left Dirsek Bay and the Hisaronu Gulf and sailed around the corner to Bozburun. Once a major center for sponge diving, the people of Bozburun now make their living providing services to the visiting cruisers.

We spent two nights in Bozburun – one night enjoying dinner at Osman’s and cheering Spain on to victory over Germany. We can’t believe we’re actually watching soccer and sort of liking it! After leaving Bozburun we were close to our starting point of Marmaris. We decided to come back into the Yacht Marine for a few days to get some work done on the boat, quotes for work we want to have done this winter and provisioning before we headed farther south. On July 10 we were once again tucked in on Hotel Pontoon gearing up for the next adventures.