The next morning, September 17th, we were off by 9AM. Our route for the next few days would take us through the Gulf of Patras, Gulf of Corinth and ultimately the Corinth Canal. Our first stop was Mesolonghi, 43nm away. The journey was not the most pleasant – 15 knot winds on the nose with light rain showers and confused seas. Midway the skies did clear and the seas laid down making the ride much more comfortable. Mesolonghi is located at the entrance to the Gulf of Patras. To get to the harbor you must motor up a 2nm canal lined on both sides with salt marshes and houses on stilts. It looks more like something out of SE Asia than Greece.
The harbor itself is completely protected and is an excellent place to wait for good weather. The “marina” is a work in progress. What was once an old municipal marina has been taken over by a Dutch/Greek Partnership with ambitious plans to develop it into a world class place. As for now, there’s no electricity but great WiFi and no charge for the night. It’s a 25 minute walk into the town which is where the poet Byron died.Anxious to move on we were once again underway by 9AM the next morning. We entered the Gulf of Patras and had a fabulous downwind sail averaging 7 knots.
We passed under the Rion Andirrion Suspension Bridge, longest in the world, and were side tied to the quay on Trizonia Island by 3PM. The island is lush and green but the marina has a reputation for being a grave yard and dumping ground for abandoned boats. Once again no facilities at the docks but no charge either. We’re starting to like this concept. As cheap as anchoring but you don’t have to hassle with the dingy.
The actual fishing village along the harbor is quaint with several tavernas which of course we had to check out.We were up early and on our way by 7:00AM. Our port of call, Galixidhi in the Gulf of Corinth, was only 20 nautical miles away, but we wanted to get in early to have time to explore ancient Delphi. We motored the entire distance and were in by 11:30AM. Galixidhi harbor is absolutely charming and the facilities are first rate. The harbor was recently renovated with both electric and water available and once again only 19 euros for the night.
In the 18th century it was a prosperous port until the Turks occupied the area and captured the fleet. A unique local character, the unofficial harbor master, assisted us with docking and then, when he learned we planned on going to Delphi in the afternoon, with taxi arrangements. Speaking a mix of Greek and barely recognizable English he insisted we follow him through a maze of streets to a home where an elderly woman greeted us and gave us glasses of water. A conversation between the woman and Capt Zorba (as we came to call him) ensued followed by a telephone conversation between Capt Zorba and a taxi driver. Arrangements were made and at 1PM we were picked up in much to our amazement a legitimate cab, a new Mercedes no less, and driven to Delphi. It turns out that Tonas, the driver, is the son of the woman whose home we went to. In ancient times Delphi was regarded as the center of the world. The place is spectacular, set high in the mountains amidst rocky bluffs and steep cliffs. The Greek gods Apollo, Dionysus and Athena are most famously associated with the site. Unfortunately the day before we visited there was rock slide and part of the Delphi was closed. We did enjoy what we were able to see and the museum is excellent. 
Back on board Lone Star late that afternoon and evening we had several interesting experiences. First was a conversation with fellow Texans! Bill and Mary, currently from New Braunsfels and touring Greece with their son and his girl friend, strolled by the boat. Conversation followed and we learned they had lived in Kingwood for 10 years. Second, a group of about 20 “seasoned” travelers from the USA on an organized bus tour walked by the boat. More conversation followed and the next thing we know they’re taking pictures of us and Lone Star! Finally, after dinner as we were sitting in the cockpit Thomas and Linda Wildung from Christina, the boat next to ours, happened by. After talking with them for awhile we invited them on board and had a wonderful visit. Most amazingly we learned that Thomas had been with Royal Caribbean Cruise Line and was the original Captain of the Brilliance of the Seas the ship we sailed on for our Panama Canal Cruise with many of Craig’s relatives. What a small world!
Sunday, September 20th, we were off early again. Our plans were to sail to Corinth and take a spot in the harbor for the evening. The next day we would transit the canal which was only 10 minutes away. We started off with threats of thunderstorms and cloudy skies. We arrived at the harbor only to find it very small and quite full. Technically it wasn’t full because one sailboat had taken up two spots on the quay. Even though the crew was on board and saw us circling the harbor they did nothing to move their boat. We had no choice but to leave. After discussing our options – which were limited – we decided to transit the canal that afternoon. We motored to the canal entrance and after notifying the canal authorities and a one hour wait we were able to proceed. The canal is 3.2 miles long, 25meters wide and is cut into limestone which rises 79 meters above sea level.
At 3PM we finished our transit, paid the fees and entered the Aegean. It was as if we had entered another world. When we exited the canal we left the dark clouds behind and had beautiful crystal blue skies and excellent winds for sailing. We still had several hours to go before we would get to a suitable anchorage. Finally at 6:20PM, after 60nm and almost 12 hours we were anchored off Salamis Island in a beautifully protected harbor. The lights of the town twinkled and the stars came out as we enjoyed a great dinner on board - our misfortune of not finding a slip in Corinth Harbor turning into our good fortune of ending up in this beautiful bay!
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