Under a Very Hot Roman and Tuscan Sun

After three days of anchoring out off the Tuscan islands of Elba and Giannuiri, we pointed Lone Star toward Rome and on August 20 pulled in at Nautilus Marina on the Elba River in Fiumicino. This would be our home for the next 10 days while we explored Rome and Tuscany with our long time friends Kathy and Mike Stewart who were arriving on the 21st. We’ve known Kathy and Mike for years and have vacationed with them before. After we sold our house in February they graciously offered their home to us till we left in April to go cruising. We currently are storing a closet full of stuff in their house until we go back to the States in the fall and figure out where to live. The term “marina” is a bit of a stretch for where we docked. Nautilus Marina is actually a boat yard on the Elba River with side ties, water and electricity available for boats. Being August the office was closed and on vacation but the boat yard staff was still on duty. We felt a bit isolated but the staff was great and very helpful and spoke some English. The place served our purposes since we wouldn’t be on the boat other than to sleep and shower. Of course we had to make special preparations for our guests. Mike is a diehard T-sip and with us being Aggies we wanted to make sure he felt welcome. So of course the first order was to fly a special flag we had been saving in his honor. Kathy and Mike arrived without mishap on the 21st and after lunch, unpacking and stowing luggage we once again were on a mission to keep our guests up till dark thirty.

But you will have to wait for the rest of the story… Our days together were awesome and when we have decent internet the rest of the story will be told. Until then…Ciao!!

Six Folks on a Boat

What happens when you put 6 perfectly sensible, “mature” adults together on a sailboat for six days? Would there be enough space for all? Would tempers flare? Would there be a mutiny against the Captain? In the case of “Judy, Martin, Sherry, and Drew’s Excellent Lone Star Adventure” there was lots of laughter, adventure, good times and no sign of a mutiny. After Jaime and Sky departed in Elba we made our way back north to Genoa to meet up with our next guests. Judy and Martin Harris, a truly Fab English couple who lived in Kingwood for a number of years before moving back to England and Sherry and Drew Verret, true Texans and long time Kingwood residents, were on their way to join up with us and enjoy a few days of sailing. So how did we come to know this motley band of travelers? Jan and Jennifer had met Judy and her daughter Emile at Foxcroft Farm when all were taking lessons and thru the years of carpooling and barn functions got to know the whole family. Now this is where it gets tricky – don’t worry you won’t be tested. We ultimately met Drew and Sherry Verret thru the Harris’ (the four of them being very good friends) at a New Year’s Eve party. However since we had also lived in Kingwood for years we knew of each other, had a number of the same acquaintances and Jan and Sherry felt like they very well could have met each other many years ago at a bunko or pachinko gathering. This fearsome foursome has sailed on Imagine and Seabbatical in the past and in fact Drew crewed with us on a Harvest Moon regatta and helped Craig bring Seabbatical back from Florida at the end of our cruise on her. He had been scheduled to be on board this November for the Atlantic Cup Rally from the Canaries to the Caribbean before our plans changed. However we’re not letting Drew out of his commitment and he is on permanent standby for when the crossing does take place. OK – enough background.

So here we were back in Genoa making preparations for their arrival. Drew and Sherry had flown to England several days before and the foursome was driving from England via the Chunnel to join up with us. As planned they arrived at the marina shortly after noon on August 10 with a car bursting at the seams with luggage. Much to our relief the majority of it stayed in the car and only what they needed for six days of sailing came on board. Getting four adults to decide who sleeps where, who gets the bunks, whose on the top one, and where to stow everything took some time and maneuvering but after a lunch to fortify the spirits it was off to Genoa’s Old City for sightseeing.


This was our third time for a touring the old city and we were feeling like pros and official guides. However, Genoa is so interesting and picturesque she never fails to intrigue or surprise us.

After sundowners back on the boat, a pasta dinner overlooking the port and a good night’s sleep the courageous gang of six was up early and ready to go. After a brief safety spiel we were underway at 10:30AM for a sail along the Italian Riviera to our first port of call, Santa Margherita. The itinerary we had planned for the week was much the same as it was for Jaime and Sky. The ports were so charming we wanted to revisit and were certain our friends would also enjoy them. After leaving the harbor Craig immediately turned the helm over to Drew. With Drew at the helm, the girls got their sea legs under them and Martin quickly took to chilling on the “Beach” – what has become the most popular place to hang out on Lone Star.



All during the 4 hour sail (and the term is used loosely – make that motor sail) all were enthralled with the colorful houses and resorts that dotted the coastline. At 1400 we pulled into the harbor at Santa Margherita, slightly anxious because we did not have a reservation and had been told there may not be any room. However Jan’s persistence on the bow paid off and a spot was found. After securing the lines, the group headed for shore for sightseeing and exploring.



We finished the evening with another great dinner along side another beautiful harbor.

The next morning we were off again at 10:30 (sound familiar) in route to Portovenere. The stop voted most favorite on our previous journey. Not to be outdone by Drew, Martin quickly took the helm and did not relinquish until we were approaching the harbor.
And not to be outdone by Martin, Drew quickly took up residence on the Beach and proceeded to chill. With a confirmed reservation for one night we arrived at 1430 and quickly changed the reservation for two nights. 5416 5433 7454 7457 The evening ended with a steak dinner on board Lone Star. The next day we went out sailing for the day and it was the ladies turn! Judie was first at the helm and quickly showed the guys how to do it. No motor for her – strictly wind power. Next up Sherry also gave the guys a lesson in handling a sailboat without the motor running. Rumblings of “rematch and redo” could be heard from Lone Star Beach but “girl power” was definitely the motto of the day. For lunch we dropped an anchor off a nearby island and also enjoyed some Mediterranean swimming. Dinner that evening was at Osteria Baracco, a restaurant located on a back street which had been recommended by a friend of Martin and Judy’s. It was excellent.

After two great days in Portovenere we were underway, once again at 10:30, to Viareggio. Drew was back at the helm hoping to redeem himself from the showing the ladies gave the day before. Winds were light, however we did manage to keep the motor off a good portion of the time and by 1500 were once again side tied on the canal in the marina. The traditional “booze cruise” dingy ride ensued followed by a pizza dinner on the promenade.

Much to our surprise upon arriving back at the boat we discovered a wild fire burning in the mountains beyond the town.

The next morning we had a ringside seat from our boat as we watched the water planes drop their payload on the still burning fire and swooping down into the water right outside the marina to refill their tanks.
Our last day of sailing was our longest. We left at 0930 for the 40 mile sail to Cala de Medici. Martin took the helm for the entire time even though the winds died midway and we ended up motoring. For their effort at trying to match the ladies sailing prowess and refusing to give up Drew and Martin were awarded Lone Star caps. At 1530 we were in a slip in the marina and Martin and Drew were on their way to the train station to figure out the logistics for the trip to Rome in the morning.

Back on board Craig and I were anxious to talk to Jaime. We had not talked to her since she left the boat in Elba and had received an email stating she needed to talk to us as soon as possible. Thinking it was something to do with the house she and Sky were closing on in a few days we got in touch with her and were we every wrong. Turns out while in Verona Sky popped the question, Jaime answered and a ring was given. They’re engaged and an October 2010 wedding is planned. That evening on board Lone Star the six of us enjoyed a grilled chicken dinner, toasted the happy couple and sang several rounds of “They’re Going to the Chapel and they’re gona get married…”
This was followed by a hotly contested game of, would you believe, Spoons with the two final contestants not giving an inch.

The next morning after 6 days of fun, relaxation, exploring and proving, yes six adults can spend time together on a boat and still like each other when it’s over; Judy, Martin, Sherry and Drew said their goodbyes and headed for their next adventure – Rome. We had a great time and look forward to a return visit from this band of salty dogs.

Kids on Board

On July 27 after an extended stay in Barcelona due to weather and a 5 day stop at the Amel facility in Hyeres, France for some warranty work on Lone Star we arrived in Genoa, Italy and put in at Port Antico Marina in much anticipation of our next guests. Our daughter Jaime and her boyfriend Sky were flying in from Asheville, North Carolina. We hadn’t seen Sky since Christmas and Jaime since February and it would be the first time for them to see the boat. Needless to say we were very excited. We were also anxious to hear all the details about the house they were in the process of purchasing. On the afternoon of July 29th after flying into Milan and taking the train to Genoa we had them on board!

After a tour of the boat, catching up, and unpacking of bags our mission was to keep them up till dark thirty to overcome any jet lag. We accomplished this by setting off for the Genoa’s old city section filled with twisting, turning narrow streets where nothing runs parallel, beautiful homes once owned by the rich city merchants, San Lorenzo Cathedral


and of course countless shops and cafes. After a pasta dinner (Sky a vegetarian, was definitely in heaven) and night descending on Genoa we headed back to the boat, mission accomplished.
The next morning we left Genoa at 1052. For the next 4 hours we enjoyed the sights as we sailed down the Ligurian coast passing towns with pastel houses.

In the afternoon we motored into the harbor of Santa Margherita Ligure, our stop for the evening. A beautiful resort but not as ritzy as other towns on the Riviera, Santa Margherita’s hills are filled with villas of the rich and very rich and around the harbor fish markets, shops and restaurants are everywhere. After getting settled Craig elected to stay on board and enjoy siesta time while Jaime, Sky and Jan headed off for some sightseeing. Walking through the town square and up the hills the three explorers discovered San Giacomo Church which all three agreed was way over the top and garishly decorated with red velvet draped columns and chandeliers.
However they all agreed the close by Villa Durazzo and Durazzo Park with incredible views of the harbor was worth the climb.

After recuperating from exploring during the heat of the day (maybe there’s something to this siesta thing) all four of us went out and about in search of another great pasta dinner.

After a morning first time in the Med swim for Jaime and Sky, at 10AM we were once again on our way down the coast with Jaime at the helm.
Not sure of our final destination we cruised down the Cinque Terre coast enjoying the rugged landscape and quaint, remote villages. Around 2PM we rounded the corner and entered the Golfo di la Spezia and into the harbor of Portovenere. While the harbor definitely passed the quaint test
we weren’t sure we wanted to stay. However one of the dock hands kept motioning to us so we decided what the heck we’ll stay here and were we glad. At the end of our time together we all decided Portovenere was our favorite and would have liked to spend more time there. Portovenere is enchanting with tall, narrow pastel buildings surrounding the harbor. High up above is Byron’s grotto named for Lord Byron who often stayed here
and a quaint chapel perched high above the sea.

The next morning we were off again this time for Livorno, the port which services Florence and Pisa. We changed our minds midway into the sail and instead put in at the town of Vireggio, midway between Portovenere and Livorno. We all decided a resort town sounded much more exciting than an industrial port; plus Vireggio had great train service to Florence and Pisa. After begging for a spot we were finally squeezed into a side tie berth where we based ourselves for the next three days. The next morning we were up early and on the train to Florence for a day of sightseeing.

Craig was obviously overwhelmed with excitement! Once in Florence, we split up with Jaime and Sky off to the Accademia to check out Michelangelo’s David which they pronounced amazing and huge while Craig and Jan visited the Medici Chapels. After reconnecting we walked around the famous Duomo


spent time trying to figure out where we were and how to get to where we were going, and then toured the 14th century Santa Croce Church with art and tombs of famous Florentines including Galileo. After lunch on the square in front of the church we went down to the Arno River before heading back to the train station. Monday was another day of touring for Jaime and Sky as they took the train to Pisa to see the tower. We elected not to go and stayed on board taking care of boat jobs. We finished our last day in Viareggio with a dingy ride on the canal through the city.



The next morning we were off bright and early. We were off to Elba Island and had a 10 hour sail ahead of us. Conditions were good throughout the day and at 1730 we were anchored in Barbarossa Bay off Elba Island. After a swim and a dingy ride we turned in early and the next day sailed to Portoferraio the main harbor on Elba Island. Once again we were in another picturesque Italian harbor but no we were not growing tired of the scenery. Napoleon was exiled on Elba Island after folks grew tired of his shenanigans. The island is so beautiful I don’t know why he wanted to leave but after almost two years he escaped and consequently met his Waterloo. We toured his villa and gardens – tough exile!

Our last evening was spent out enjoying another great pasta dinner and drinks on the boat afterwards. Then all too soon it was the next morning and with sad hearts we said goodbye to Jaime and Sky who were off to catch a ferry and then train to Venice and Verona for five more days of Italy. We’re sure they were glad to be headed off on their own and more adventures. Little did we know what excitement was yet to come for the two of them!