Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Familiar Places

On Friday 20 May, with a newly fixed fresh water pump and a visit to the Acropolis checked off the list, we left Zea Marina in Piraeus and continued our journey west. Now we were in familiar waters and retracing our 2009 path. Once again we transited the Corinth Canal this time heading west. As we transited with three cargo ships and 2 other sail boats it was just as thrilling as the first time.

A bonus feature this time was the addition of bungee jumping from one of the bridges. As the last of the boats passed they were in full operation with screams echoing off the canal walls. As we were transiting we also heard Esperanza calling the Canal Tower so we knew they were not far behind us. Once thru the canal we headed for the north side of Corinth Bay and by 1800 we were anchored in Vathi Bay, sundowners in hand and steaks sizzling on the grill. We were glad our 60nm day was over.

The next day we left Vathi Bay which we had renamed Jelly Fish Bay because of the dozens of strange looking jelly fish that were floating in the water. Translucent socks with red eyes, they surrounded the boat anxiously anticipating some unsuspecting sailor to dive in! That afternoon we pulled into one of our favorite harbors in Greece – Galaxidhi. It was just as charming as we remembered and we decided to stay for two days instead of just overnight. Galaxidhi is an excellent place to leave the boat while visiting the ruins of Delphi which is what we did in 2009. This time we decided to spend our extra day hiking in the surrounding countryside. That first afternoon as we were finishing a late lunch at one of the harbor side tavernas who should pull in beside us – Esperanza, our paths crossing once again. We chatted them up and they had also decided to stay for two days with plans of taking in Delphi the next. As we were finishing dinner the second evening in another quaint taverna Dr Bob, John and Brad came in and we joined them for an after dinner drink. As the evening continued at it was becoming apparent the men were starting to solve the world’s problems Jan left them to their own devices and smartly went back to the boat. Sometime later Craig made his way back to the boat sure that all problems had been solved and quite possibly new ones created!

In Galaxidhi we captured an amazing picture of Lone Star in the harbor. If you look closely at the mountains in the background – there’s still snow on the peaks! No wonder we’re not swimming yet. The next day, Monday 24 May, we retraced our route thru Corinth Gulf, under the Rion Bridge with Esperanza to our starboard and into the Gulf of Patras. We had a great downwind sail and at 1627 pulled into another familiar place – Messolonghi Marina. We returned not because the setting was idyllic nor the town quaint and the marina outstanding. We returned because it was in the right place, at the end of a 53nm sail, and out of curiosity. When we stopped in 2009 the marina, a Dutch/Greek partnership, was just a work in progress with great plans for the future. At that time there was one new dock, several old ones none with power, water, electricity or lazy lines. One building was complete and it was serving as the office with plans to eventually be a café/bar. But there was no charge.

Fast forward to 2011. Several new docks with facilities were now present. A two story office was now complete as well as bathrooms. The original café/bar building was there but still not open and instead of free the cost was 40 euros. Work continues, slowly, as is the Greek way and the plans are ambitious. We wish them well. There seems to be close knit group of cruisers who wintered at the marina. In fact we met Katherine and Craig Briggs, Seven Seas Commodores, who had wintered their boat Sangaris, an Amel Santorin, in the marina. Katherine and Craig have been sailing Sangaris for 12 years and have sailed as far as the Galapagos and had just finished two years in Croatia. They were preparing Sangaris for the voyage east thru Greece and on to Turkey. We enjoyed a visit on board their boat and later that evening Esperanza and Sangaris joined us on board Lone Star for sundowners, appetizers and the trading of sailing adventures and information sharing. Such is the life of cruisers. The next day as we sailed into the Ionian we said our goodbyes over the VHF to Esperanza as we were off to different islands.

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