Kids on Board

On July 27 after an extended stay in Barcelona due to weather and a 5 day stop at the Amel facility in Hyeres, France for some warranty work on Lone Star we arrived in Genoa, Italy and put in at Port Antico Marina in much anticipation of our next guests. Our daughter Jaime and her boyfriend Sky were flying in from Asheville, North Carolina. We hadn’t seen Sky since Christmas and Jaime since February and it would be the first time for them to see the boat. Needless to say we were very excited. We were also anxious to hear all the details about the house they were in the process of purchasing. On the afternoon of July 29th after flying into Milan and taking the train to Genoa we had them on board!

After a tour of the boat, catching up, and unpacking of bags our mission was to keep them up till dark thirty to overcome any jet lag. We accomplished this by setting off for the Genoa’s old city section filled with twisting, turning narrow streets where nothing runs parallel, beautiful homes once owned by the rich city merchants, San Lorenzo Cathedral


and of course countless shops and cafes. After a pasta dinner (Sky a vegetarian, was definitely in heaven) and night descending on Genoa we headed back to the boat, mission accomplished.
The next morning we left Genoa at 1052. For the next 4 hours we enjoyed the sights as we sailed down the Ligurian coast passing towns with pastel houses.

In the afternoon we motored into the harbor of Santa Margherita Ligure, our stop for the evening. A beautiful resort but not as ritzy as other towns on the Riviera, Santa Margherita’s hills are filled with villas of the rich and very rich and around the harbor fish markets, shops and restaurants are everywhere. After getting settled Craig elected to stay on board and enjoy siesta time while Jaime, Sky and Jan headed off for some sightseeing. Walking through the town square and up the hills the three explorers discovered San Giacomo Church which all three agreed was way over the top and garishly decorated with red velvet draped columns and chandeliers.
However they all agreed the close by Villa Durazzo and Durazzo Park with incredible views of the harbor was worth the climb.

After recuperating from exploring during the heat of the day (maybe there’s something to this siesta thing) all four of us went out and about in search of another great pasta dinner.

After a morning first time in the Med swim for Jaime and Sky, at 10AM we were once again on our way down the coast with Jaime at the helm.
Not sure of our final destination we cruised down the Cinque Terre coast enjoying the rugged landscape and quaint, remote villages. Around 2PM we rounded the corner and entered the Golfo di la Spezia and into the harbor of Portovenere. While the harbor definitely passed the quaint test
we weren’t sure we wanted to stay. However one of the dock hands kept motioning to us so we decided what the heck we’ll stay here and were we glad. At the end of our time together we all decided Portovenere was our favorite and would have liked to spend more time there. Portovenere is enchanting with tall, narrow pastel buildings surrounding the harbor. High up above is Byron’s grotto named for Lord Byron who often stayed here
and a quaint chapel perched high above the sea.

The next morning we were off again this time for Livorno, the port which services Florence and Pisa. We changed our minds midway into the sail and instead put in at the town of Vireggio, midway between Portovenere and Livorno. We all decided a resort town sounded much more exciting than an industrial port; plus Vireggio had great train service to Florence and Pisa. After begging for a spot we were finally squeezed into a side tie berth where we based ourselves for the next three days. The next morning we were up early and on the train to Florence for a day of sightseeing.

Craig was obviously overwhelmed with excitement! Once in Florence, we split up with Jaime and Sky off to the Accademia to check out Michelangelo’s David which they pronounced amazing and huge while Craig and Jan visited the Medici Chapels. After reconnecting we walked around the famous Duomo


spent time trying to figure out where we were and how to get to where we were going, and then toured the 14th century Santa Croce Church with art and tombs of famous Florentines including Galileo. After lunch on the square in front of the church we went down to the Arno River before heading back to the train station. Monday was another day of touring for Jaime and Sky as they took the train to Pisa to see the tower. We elected not to go and stayed on board taking care of boat jobs. We finished our last day in Viareggio with a dingy ride on the canal through the city.



The next morning we were off bright and early. We were off to Elba Island and had a 10 hour sail ahead of us. Conditions were good throughout the day and at 1730 we were anchored in Barbarossa Bay off Elba Island. After a swim and a dingy ride we turned in early and the next day sailed to Portoferraio the main harbor on Elba Island. Once again we were in another picturesque Italian harbor but no we were not growing tired of the scenery. Napoleon was exiled on Elba Island after folks grew tired of his shenanigans. The island is so beautiful I don’t know why he wanted to leave but after almost two years he escaped and consequently met his Waterloo. We toured his villa and gardens – tough exile!

Our last evening was spent out enjoying another great pasta dinner and drinks on the boat afterwards. Then all too soon it was the next morning and with sad hearts we said goodbye to Jaime and Sky who were off to catch a ferry and then train to Venice and Verona for five more days of Italy. We’re sure they were glad to be headed off on their own and more adventures. Little did we know what excitement was yet to come for the two of them!

Change in Cruising Plan

In an earlier post we mentioned that a change was in the works on our cruising plan. Well it is official. LONE STAR will not be coming across the Atlantic this November. Instead she will go to Turkey where she will be pulled out of the water in October and will spend the winter on dry land while we come back to the USA. The change in plans came about after we began to realize that we were giving some wonderful places very little time because of our aggressive cruising schedule. Now we can relax a little more and will also be able to experience the Greek Isles and Turkey. Who knows, maybe we will get up to Venice next summer. Craig is hoping the crew for the crossing this November will be able to adjust their schedules to do it in 2010.

Going to Amel facility in Mediterranean to get some items attended to

We have owned LONE STAR for one year and a few items have surfaced that need the attention of the mother ship. Therefore, we are heading for Hyéres, FRANCE, (Amel’s Mediterranean base) to get them attended to. We just sent them an email saying we may be delayed because of the Mistral in the Gulf of Lyon and they promptly said that would be no problem and gave us a couple of additional alternatives if the space they specified is not available when we arrive. You have got to love these people!! Anyway, we hope to leave early on Sunday (July 19th) for the 204 mile trip. Our next landfall will be southern France just before the start of the French, Riviera.

Extra time in Barcelona

We always like to spend an extra day to unwind after our guests, but we did not expect to be staying in Barcelona because of a La Tremontonia , or Mistril if you are French, blowing up in the Gulf of Lyon. This is a strong wind that suddenly blows in from the north west (suddenly means within a couple of hours) . When we were with Dave and Carol we kiddingly said as we looked at the hazy sky, “I hope this is not what they think is a brilliant sky.” The cruising guides say the La Tremontonia is preceded by a brilliant sky and cigar shaped clouds. Guess what. This afternoon the sky cleared and cigar shaped clouds started to appear. Then guess what. The winds started to build and are expected to be as high as 50 knots. We are glad we are still in the Barcelona marina.

Anyway here we are on the 17th of July saying to ourselves, we love Barcelona, so why is this so bad? Now we get to go to the Maritime Museum and see some of the Classic Boat Sailing Regatta. We will also get to make another run to the store to lay in a couple more cases of Albarińo wine.

From the Islands to Barcelona with the Weigel's

After a few days of exploring the southeast coast of Mallorca we headed back to Palma and the Club Nautico Marina to await our next guests Carol and Dave Weigel. Dave and Craig worked together at TCA. Carol and Dave were supposed to join us on Seabbatical back in June 2007 when we were in the Bahamas. However due to unusually bad weather conditions for June in the Bahamas we could not make the trip happen. Since then and now they have been bitten by the nautical bug and are the proud owners of Flip Flop a Tiara sport fisher (ok it’s power – we forgive them) We were looking forward to finally having them on board (albeit a different boat!) for an extended cruise. On July 7 after a long journey from Caswell Beach, North Carolina via Wilmington, Atlanta, and Barcelona Dave and Carol arrived in Palma a bit jet lagged and minus one duffel bag which had decided to journey off on its’ own. The missing bag delayed our departure from Palma by a day but we put good use to the extra time by touring the local sights including the Palma Cathedral,
sampling the local cuisine and picking up a few items Dave and Carol needed in case the bag never showed. On the morning of July 9th we decided to go ahead and leave Palma minus the bag – Delta had assured Dave they could not deliver the bag to Palma once it was found and at best would deliver it back to their home. However Jan and Carol decided to check with the main yacht club office before leaving and there it was – the missing bag. Guess Delta doesn’t quite know what they can and can’t do, or what they’ve done and haven’t done! With missing bag now safely aboard Lone Star we slipped the lines for the final time at Club Nautico and headed west.

We spent four days sailing along the southern, western and northern coasts of Mallorca. The first day was a short sail to the charming town of Santa Ponsa. We took a slip at the local yacht club and enjoyed a great paella dinner at a local restaurant. From there we sailed up the rugged and wild northwestern coast to Puerto de Soller where we dropped a hook in the beautiful harbor.


Puerto de Soller is the only safe harbor on this part of the coast and is surrounded by mountains and forests. The harbor is ringed with shops and restaurants and is a beautiful sight at night with all the lights reflecting on the water. We took the electric tram inland to the town of Soller, one of the many places claiming to be the birthplace of Chris Columbus, and back on board Lone Star enjoyed a grilled steak dinner under the stars. The third day was our shortest sail yet, just 15 nautical miles around the corner to Cala de la Calobra and the Torrente de Pareis where we once again dropped the anchor. The Torrente de Pareis is considered one of the top sights in Mallorca and by day many tourists arrive by land or sea.
However, in the evening most were gone and we had the anchorage almost to ourselves. We spent the afternoon kayaking (Dave) and having a close and not too pleasant jelly fish encounter (Jan). After most the tourists retreated to wherever they had come from we dingied to shore and hiked to the Torrente.
Our last day of sailing along the coast took us past more incredible scenery to the northeast port of Alcudia where we took a slip at Marina Alcudiamar. The marina is absolutely huge with dozens of restaurants, chandleries and beautiful beaches nearby. A fifteen minute walk inland brings you to the historic town of Alcudia which dates back to Phoenician times with ancient Roman ruins and a walled city center. After a morning of sightseeing and boat preparations, we left Mallorca for an overnight sail to Barcelona.

On Monday, July 13 with a party of 4 salty dogs Lone Star left Mallorca at 1249 and headed west for an overnight 100nm sail to Barcelona. The weather looked good – a downwind sail with slight seas. The sail started out as predicted under clear skies and we were all enjoying the day which included two separate dolphin sightings; quite an accomplishment in the Med. However as the day turned to night the weather predicted was not the weather we got. The winds freshened to 20+ knots and the downwind sail turned into a beat with the jib rolled in and the motor running. While not very comfortable the night passed with only one major exciting moment – a close encounter with a container ship. Capt Craig called the ship on the VHF, the big boy responded and altered course. He felt very powerful! By 0906 on July 14 after a rough crossing we were docked at Port Vell Marina in the heart of Barcelona.
After giving the boat a much needed rinse and siestas and baths for the crew we set out on foot in the early evening exploring the Ramblas, Barcelona’s major pedestrian thoroughfare, which runs from the city center to the port. Ramblas has everything - outdoor cafes; food, flower and bird markets; street performers; and pickpockets (luckily we didn’t encounter any of those). Still tired we turned in early to ready ourselves for two days of “turbo touring”. The next two days we took advantage of Barcelona’s excellent Hop on Hop off Bus to see all the major sights. The first day we toured the Barcelona Cathedral where from the roof top we were able to see all of Barcelona, Church of Santa Maria del Mar (dedicated to sailors) and Picasso Museum, explored the Barri Gotic and La Ribera neighborhoods and drove by countless over sights. The second day we devoted to Barcelona’s famous architect Antoni Gaudi. Gaudi’s designs can be seen all over the city. His most famous creation, Sagrada Familia (Holy Family Church) has been under construction for over 100 years and has 25 more to go before completion. Even though not complete we were able to tour the inside and ride an elevator up one of the towers for a birds eye look and walk down. We spent half a day touring this truly remarkable sight.


All good things must come to an end and after a 10 day visit filled with good times, one missing and found bag, and one accident – an encounter between and ankle and a winch derailer - we said goodbye to the Weigels. A great time was had by all and we hope to see Carol and Dave on board Lone Star again. **Footnote to the missing bag saga. Two weeks after Dave and Carol were back home they received a call from Delta saying they had located the missing bag and was sending it to them. Even though they explained they had their bag Delta insisted and a day later a bag not belonging to them but to a lady in Middle America showed up on their door step. Being good Samaritans, Dave and Carol found the owner’s address inside the bag and sent it on its way. Airlines – can’t live with them, can’t live without them!

Happy Birthday America

Happy Birthday America from Porto Cristo, Mallorca. To celebrate we took a boat ride in the famous Coves del Drach here in Porto Cristo.

Sorry, but I am not giving any advise about going long or short on the Euro this year. Wish I had taken the advise I gave last July 4th.

Landlubbers on Board!

We had been trying to get our next set of guests to come sailing with us since back when we had Seabbatical, but were never able to make it happen. But now it was finally happening - the Kretschmers were coming on board! Nancy and Andy and two of their three children, Ted and Grace, were on their way. They had planned a two week trip to Spain and after three days of “turbo touring” in Barcelona, where headed to Majorca for 5 days of fun in the sun and a dose of cruising. Nancy and Grace have been friends with Jan for years as all of them have had horses at Foxcroft Farm. Craig and Andy would see each other at barn parties and other gatherings and enjoyed each other’s company. Andy, an emergency Doc, has also advised us on what to include in the way of medical supplies on board both Seabbatical and Lone Star. We had met Ted only a couple of times and were looking forward to getting to know him better. While we were excited and looking forward to their arrival, we were also anxiously hopeful they would enjoy their time on board as they had never been sailing.

They arrived mid afternoon June 27 and before boarding we issued their first order of the week – shoes off when on board! Once that order was dutifully followed all were granted permission to board Lone Star.



After a tour of the boat, lunch on board and stowing clothes and luggage it was off for dingy tours of the Palma Harbor. Palma is home to some truly amazing what we call “Gold Lame” boats. Definitely makes you feel like a little fish surrounded by giant whales.

For the next 3 days we all enjoyed great sailing conditions; the motor was rarely used other entering and exiting and the auto pilot got a well deserved rest. The next morning, after a brief safety session, we were off to our first stop. After exiting the harbor, Jan turned the helm over to Ted. Craig was definitely in his element – teaching folks how to sail. While Ted was on the helm, Grace was helping with tacking, Nancy was taking pictures and Andy was getting into relaxation mode on what we call “Lone Star Beach” (area of the boat behind the cockpit). Our worries over whether they would have a good time were rapidly diminishing. Ted was a natural at the helm and only reluctantly turned it over to Grace who also did a great job. After a four hour sail we dropped anchor in Calla Porto Vells, a beautiful cove with crystal clear waters, three beaches, and caves to explore.




After playing in the Mediterranean waters, exploring the caves which had a shrine dating back to Phoenician times, and a great steak dinner on board all turned in. Ted in fact, slept topside. Our next stop was the port of Andratix, where we took a slip at the yacht club. Along the way Ted once again did a masterful job at the helm, while Grace plugged in her iPod and we got a much needed break from our music. In addition to artists we had never heard of, we were amazed and thrilled to find out both Grace and Ted are huge Beatle fans. The afternoon was spent strolling the harbor and enjoying the yacht club pool. The evening activities included a dinner out at one of the restaurants along the harbor and an intense game of triominos back on board. On the final day of sailing we finally got both Nancy and Andy to take a turn at the helm.
Good job guys! For our final day together sightseeing was on the agenda. We took the narrow gauge railroad from Palma through the interior of the island to the town of Soller, one of the many places claiming to be the birth place of Christopher Columbus. Back in Palma all of us except one, Craig elected for a siesta, toured the Palma Cathedral.

The next day we said a sad farewell to our newly christened cruisers. It was great being together and introducing the Kretschmers to cruising. We know all had a good time and Ted, in particular, could be easily swayed to run away to the sea. We hope to see them back on board.